J. Lohr Vineyards, Paso Robles (Central Coast, California) “Cuvée POM” 2022 ($50)

In the category we might call “Big-Time California Red Blends” this is a top performer that doesn’t have the giant price tag typically attached to the genre. Nearly opaque and very darkly pigmented, it is a blend of 40% Merlot, 35% Malbec, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 5% Cabernet Franc. Those proportions indicate it wasn’t made to kick down the proverbial door with Cabernet’s flavor impact and tannins, yet there is nothing “shy” about the wine; “civilized” would be more appropriate. But make no mistake, this is powerful — just not punishing.
96 Michael Franz