The 2009 vintage in Beaujolais was fabulous, as it was in the rest of Burgundy for red wines. Brun is small, dedicated producer who extracts the unique character from each of his wines. This one from Morgon, one of the top crus of Beaujolais, has great minerality–you can almost taste the granitic soil. It’s firm, not hard, with plenty of flesh. Not at all grapey, it shows that high quality, exciting wine can come from this oft-maligned area.
Jean-Paul Brun, Morgon (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2009
By Michael Apstein