Jermann, Friuli DOC (Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy) Pinot Grigio 2017

 Pinot Grigio has become so popular that, for many, it is a commodity, as in “I’ll have a glass of Pinot Grigio…” with no sense of site or producer.  The result is that a bevy of innocuous watery Pinot Grigio have diluted (no pun intended) the wine’s reputation.  For those who want to understand what real Pinot Grigio tastes like — and see why it has become so popular — reach for this one from Jermann.  Friuli, in the northeast of Italy, is one of the best sites for Pinot Grigio and Jermann is one of the top producers in that region.  Their 2017 is delicately floral, persistent and has real depth.  A bright finish makes even more engaging.  I recently had a 10-year old Jermann Pinot Grigio bottled under screwcap that had extraordinary complexity and suaveness.  For Jermann, Pinot Grigio is not a commodity, but a serious wine.  And very well priced.