If the Karolyi Estate is indicative of Hungarian Gruner in general, the Hungarian version would seem to be leaner than Austrian Gruner. That’s not to say it isn’t a beautiful, delicious wine. The 2017 Gruner Veltliner from Karolyi is clean and crisp, with attractive lime citrus notes and surprising length. It’s a steal at the price.
Karolyi Estate, Pannon (Hungary) Gruner Veltliner 2017
By Robert Whitley