Kumeu River, North Island (New Zealand) Chardonnay, Estate 2022 ($38, Wilson Daniels)

Kumeu River, owned by the charming and humble Brajkovich family, is arguably New Zealand’s top Chardonnay producer. Founded in 1944, they started making fortified wines and gradually transitioned to high quality still wine with, of all things, Müller-Thurgau, and eventually landed on Chardonnay. Their wines first arrived on these shores in 1987, caught everyone’s attention with their Burgundian-like character and striking quality, and the rest, as they say, is history. The Estate Chardonnay, which they’ve been making since the 1980s, comes from six vineyards in the Kumeu area, five of which are theirs. The stylish 2022 has a gentle richness and enlivening citrus finish. Those looking for voluptuous Chardonnay will be disappointed. Those who embrace a racy, elegant style of Chardonnay that displays plenty of flavor will love this wine.
93 Michael Apstein