While I like white wines of all weights and textures, I’ll have to admit I often prefer the leaner, more minerally presentation of everyday Chablis to the crus – not always, but often. I think it’s because so many cru Chablis seem to be competing with Côtes d’Or Chardonnays, and that’s a losing battle. A bit of heretical thinking, perhaps, but there it is. All this is background for why I prefer (and actually think it a better wine) this regional Chablis to the brand’s Fourchaume Premier Cru at twice the price. This one is an elegant, almost delicate white, with light green apple and quince flavors, sparkling acid, river stone minerality, light on the alcohol and a citrus peel finish.
La Chablisienne, Chablis (Burgundy, France) 2022
By Roger Morris