La Crema, Monterey (California) Pinot Gris 2016

  I’ve always been struck that California and Oregon Pinot Gris lacks the richness, palate weight and viscosity of Pinot Gris made in Alsace. That’s not necessarily a bad thing. But it is a difference that draws unrealistic and unfair comparisons to the wine’s European cousin. New World Pinot Gris typically falls somewhere between the lushness of Alsatian Pinot Gris and light-bodied, crisp Italian Pinot Grigio. La Crema’s Monterey Pinot Gris is a good example. It has a modicum of richness that is beyond most Pinot Grigio but is far from lush. This vintage offers an almond, marzipan note as well as nuance of lemon oil and pear. It’s a thoroughly enjoyable Pinot Gris even if it fails to imitate Alsatian Pinot Gris, as so many critics would prefer.