The Lagarde wines are well named if you know a little French, in which case the bodega’s name could well be translated as Vin de Garde. At the top level, these are wines for storing or “guarding,” as they clearly improve with aeration, which is in turn an almost infallible sign of cellaring potential. This flagship bottling truly merits its position at the top of the line, showing gorgeous aromatics that include ripe fruit notes accented with an intriguing floral note. The fruit is rich and ripe, with deep and persistent flavors that are subtly edged with oak, in stark contrast to the “Guarda,” which is quite aggressively oaked. Some tasters would no doubt prefer the Garda bottling, but this one is the pick of the litter for me.