Mountlouis-sur-Loire lies across the Loire River from Vouvray and uses the same Chenin Blanc grape for its captivatingly delicious wines. Similar in style to Vouvray, they vary from dry, like this one, to sweet. A waiter at GrandCoeur, an exceptional new-wave bistro in the Marais section of Paris, recommended this one to me. Am I glad he did! It displays great depth — minerals and the barest hint of green apple-like fruitiness — amplified by cutting crispness that carries into the lengthy finish. It shows the heights that Chenin Blanc planted in the right place can achieve. Stock up on this refreshing white for summer.
Le Rocher des Violettes, Mountlouis-sur-Loire (Loire Valley, France) 2021
By Michael Apstein