Leonetti Cellar, Walla Walla Valley (Washington) Merlot 2008

 Pride has its place, and Three Palms has its partisans, but by my lights this is America’s best Merlot–and one of the world’s best as well.  It offers impressive depth and impact of flavor but without any excess weight or ripeness.  Equally impressive is its exemplary integration, as the fruit is almost shades gently into the oak which is perfectly entwined with the acidity and tannin.  The black cherry and plum flavors flow smoothly with the woodsmoke and spice accents, and the softness of the fruit is structured by the tannin without any drying.  Everything holds together so well that you could drink this with great pleasure now, but you’d be well advised to wait a few years for the nascent complexities to become even more expressive.