L’escarelle, Coteaux Varois en Provence (France) 2022

 As rosé wines have risen rapidly in popularity in recent years, wine lovers have shown willingness to purchase renditions at ever higher prices to learn just how good “the good stuff” can be.  This is especially true for fine renditions in Provence, whereas formerly only Bandol and maybe Tavel could attract buyers at prices at — or above — the $30 mark.  Even at that level, what one often gets is a spectacularly inventive bottle holding a good but unremarkable wine.  By contrast, in this case, what one gets is a nice enough bottle holding an impressive and delicious wine.  It shows much better physical density and depth of flavor than the norm, but with no hint of over-ripeness that would take it out of balance to make it more impressive.  It is unmistakably medium-bodied, and even leaning toward the upper end of that range, but still vibrant and full of fresh fruit flavors — but subtle ones, with red cherry and strawberry flavors rather than sugar driving the palate impression.  If my score for this wine is off, I missed on the low side.