The 2017 red Burgundies fall into two categories: forward and charming ready-to-drink wines and more structured ones suitable for the cellar. This Santenay falls into the first category. I attribute its amazing gracefulness, especially for Santenay, to the old vines in the hands of a talented producer. It combines fresh red fruit-like flavors and savory notes and ends with a delightful freshness. Finesse-filled, it still conveys the charming, slightly rustic profile of Santenay. Frankly, given the prices of Burgundy these days, it’s a great buy.
Lucien Muzard et Fils, Santenay Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) 2017
By Michael Apstein