Luigi Baudana, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) Baudana 2021 ($96)

Serralunga d’Alba is one of the great wine communes of the Barolo appellation. The Baudana vineyard is among the most highly regarded in Serralunga. With a combination of clay and sand soils and a perfect southwest facing aspect, Baudana grapes offer elegance and finesse to any Barolo bottling. The Luigi Baudana estate was purchased by the Vajra family in 2008 but is run as a separate entity. The 2021 Baudana Barolo is exceptional, even for this lauded site. It shows the ripeness of the harvest, the sleek and subtle spiciness of oak and the unique style of the Nebbiolo grape. Floral elements burst forth at the nose, underscored by layers of juicy pure raspberry, red plum and cherry fruits. These elegant aromas are enhanced by elements of leather, sandalwood, tea and spice. The flavors are elegant and complex, with fruits interwoven with the classic, leafy, forest floor character of fine Barolo. The beautiful, long finish reveals the impressive breadth and complexity of the wine. Delicious now, it can cellar well for another two decades.
96 Wayne Belding