Maison Gilliard, Valais (Switzerland) 2017

 Gilliard is one of Switzerland’s most eminent houses, and this particular wine among its leading products, with a great sense of tradition conveyed by the hefty proprietary bottle, fantastic throw-back label, and cork closure…even if the latter is (wisely) a modern composite rather than a solid cork.  Of course, none of that matters if the wine isn’t good, but the fact is that the wine is terrific…at least in this vintage.  It shows notably more heft and less fizz than Germanier’s “Les Terrasses” bottling from this region and vintage, but that’s not a knock on either of them…just an indication that they should be employed differently.  Germanier’s is a Fendant that is best suited to pre-dinner sipping or pairing with the lightest possible fare, whereas Gilliard’s can stand up to fish dishes or even scallops, as I discovered by first-hand experience.  Yet the wine is still fresh…apple and pear notes are energized by citrus acidity and enough carbon dioxide to coat the interior with bubbles, so there’s no reason to treat this all that much differently than you would other Fendents…just with a little more seriousness and respect.