It’s worth repeating: The 2009 red Burgundies are sensational. Perfect weather at harvest was the culmination of superb weather during the entire growing season. The wines in general, like this one, are unusually ripe and easy to drink now. Prices are up, reflecting strong demand, so when you see a premier cru Volnay from a top producer, such as Latour, at a reasonable price–for Burgundy, at least–take notice. The floral red fruit perfume of this wine is the first element to seduce you. And then the quintessential “flavor without weight” character of Burgundy dazzles the palate with a mixture of raspberry-like notes mixed with leafy earthy nuances. Long and suave, this charming mid-weight wine is hard to resist now.
Maison Louis Latour, Volnay Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) 2009
By Michael Apstein