Malabaila, Roero DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) 2018

 According to the front label, this producer has been at it since 1362, which — in case you weren’t keeping count — is well before either France or Spain existed as we know them, and 130 years before Columbus’ voyage.  All you’d need to see to make this “compute” is to see the beautiful steep slopes of the hills in Roero to see why vines have been cultivated in Roero for so long (difficult as that is, due to their often very sharp verticality).  Some informed observers believe that the sheer severity of Roero’s hillside vineyards places then at a disadvantage relative to neighboring Barolo and Barbaresco, but that is as yet unproven, even after all these centuries.  The key question here is:  Is Barolo in the lead followed in order by Barbaresco and Roero in that order because that’s the pecking order for quality of growing conditions, or is this a “nothing succeeds like success” situation, with Barolo benefiting from more fame resulting in higher selling prices that translate into more investment capital for better winemaking talent, lower yields, better barrels, etc.  This is a very “live” debate regarding the relative merits and commercial standing of Barolo and Barbaresco, but Roero belongs in the same conversation — for the same reason, and based on the same rogue variable in the equation.  Moving to this wine, it shows appropriately tight aromas and flavors for Nebbiolo when initially uncorked, but responds quickly to aeration.  As it opens, it shows moderately ripe aromas of red cherries with light floral and spice topnotes, with very fine tannins and extremely well integrated wood notes offering a bit of firming without any astringency or abbreviation of the finish.  Silky in feel but not formless, with some emerging leathery notes foreshadowing the savory scents and flavors that will soon make this a complete wine, this is a thoroughbred that will hit its stride in another year or two.