Marqués de Cáceres, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albarino 2017

 This famous Rioja bodega has been turning out excellent Albariño under this proprietary label for several years now, and the 2017 is certainly no exception.  Although many houses in Rias Baixas already have 2018 as their current release in the USA, don’t shy away from this based on a concern that it may lack freshness.  On the contrary, this is delightfully tart and refreshing for the summer season now upon us, with zesty acidity lending a taut, linear character to the wine.  There’s less of the rounded mouthfeel than this has shown in some previous vintages, but still plenty of stone fruit flavor to keep this seeming as generous as it is bright.