I have long thought that Bordeaux lovers who could only afford lesser growths should instead invest in reds from Rioja, whose wines are similar in structure and flavors but more-reasonably priced. It’s always been one of my favorite regions for visiting or for drinking, and Riscal’s Frank Gehry-designed hotel is a good place to do both. This vintage has delicious flavors of blackberries blended with lovely barrel notes and lip-smacking tannins – all very satisfying. It is an elegant wine, smooth and lightish in flavors in spite of its 15% alcohol. A rare steak might over-power the wine, but it would go very well with after-dinner cheeses or tomato and meat pastas.
Marqués de Riscal, Rioja Reserva (Spain) 2016
By Roger Morris