Massolino, Barolo DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) 2015

 Nuanced and elegant, this is such a refined Barolo that it seems almost uncanny in relation to the character of the big wines of the 2015 vintage from this famous appellation.  Its relatively light and lithe profile also seems surprising when considering that the fruit was grown in differing sites within Serralunga d’Alba, famous for the most weighty wines of any commune in the Barolo zone.  Still, the Serralunga source makes sense when considering the streak of fruity sweetness that buffers this wine’s tannins, making it very enjoyable even now if given a vigorous decanting and a food partner with a bit of dietary fat.  Aromas recalling baking spices and violets work beautifully with flavors of dark cherries and black raspberries, with plenty of grip in the finish but no off-putting bitterness or astringency.  Still, this is a serious wine, one that will benefit from at least 5 years of aging, even if it doesn’t really need that much.