McIlroy Cellars, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2021

 This highly admirable Pinot is light and fresh — almost ethereal — and yet it offers very expressive aromas and flavors despite its light body and very delicate structure.  Everybody knows lemon chiffon — think red cherry Pinot chiffon in this case, or just this of this as the exact opposite of the chunky “Pinot Syrah” type of wine that has had its day in supermarkets during recent years.  Lovely aromas of fresh red cherries with a light edge of spice get this off to a great start, and the flavors are likewise restrained but enticing at once.  Both the tannins and wood are so well integrated as to be nearly indetectable, though they do support the wine in very subtle ways.  This is among the most stylish Pinots I’ve tasted in recent years.