Merotto, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG (Veneto, Italy) 2012

This is a very successful wine that doesn’t impress quite as much as the other top wines of this impressive house, but that’s more because the others are so good than because of notable shortcomings.  Made from 90% Glera (a.k.a. Prosecco) plus 10% Perera, a local variety that contributes an intense floral character that purportedly comes through even when the grapes are sampled directly from the vine, this starts with alluring flowery aromas.  The texture is broad and soft, as one would expect from this Dry category, but the sugar is really not overly evident, and one must almost “feel” for it in the wine’s finish, which is admirably clean and fresh.