Merry Edwards Winery, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Coopersmith Vineyard Pinot Noir 2022 ($75)

I tasted this side-by-side with this producer’s more “general” Russian River Valley Pinot Noir from 2022, and though that wine is undeniably excellent, this Coopersmith release offers several ratchet clicks up in overall quality. It is very complex aromatically, with very expressive fruit-based aromas but also alluring accents of light-roasted coffee beans, baking spices, and cocoa powder. Some of those accent notes are likely derived from the cooperage employed in the wine’s elevage, yet there’s nothing overtly “woody” about the wine. This shows impressively restrained decisions in the cellar, as the physical density of the wine and its highly impactful fruit flavors could have sustained a heavier oak load. There would have been a cost to that, though, as the wine would be less enjoyable early on, whereas it is marvelously delicious already. But for those who can manage to find and buy this (tough to do except direct from the winery), it is very important to note that the Merry Edwards Pinots have always aged remarkably well. This is terrific, and in the context of worldwide pricing for high-end Pinot (not just red Burgundy), it offers strong value even at $75.
96 Michael Franz