Merry Edwards Winery, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2022 ($65)

This has long been among most consistent and outstanding wineries in the United States (at a minimum), and quality has not slipped at all since Merry sold to Roederer. The wines are arguably even better, as are the labels, though this is no insult to the founder but rather an augmentation of her legacy. The style has remained constant, as have the look of the labels in general terms. It is not hyperbole to note that this is among the most successful ownership transitions in the history of American wine. As a case in point, this “entry level” Pinot Noir from the cool, long 2022 growing season is terrific, with exceptionally pure fruit that shows its beauty partly because oak was used in such precise balance that it is already barely noticeable as a distinct aroma or flavor element. What is evident to the senses are classic California Pinot notes of Bing cherries with undertones of wild strawberry and subtle spice notes. At the risk of repeating myself, this is California Pinot, full of flavor and fun and ready to enjoy—unlike the great majority of Burgundies and some Oregonian counterparts. But with that noted, this is also quite classy, both because of the vintage and the skill behind its growing and vinification.
93 Michael Franz