Moccagatta, Barbaresco (Piedmont, Italy) 2012

This is impressive for depth of color and degree of concentration, and the winemaker was apparently emboldened by the seriousness of the material to apply a pretty serious dose of wood.  That isn’t generally to my taste in Barbaresco, but the wine is an undeniable success, with very ripe fruit soaking up the tannins and providing a balanced finish for a wine with a lot more punch than one would expect from this appellation.