Möet & Chandon, Champagne (France) “Collection Impériale Création No. 1” Brut Nature NV ($271)

Tasted with cellar master Benoit Gouêt, who poured it with two vintages — 2016 (very floral), 2013 (very persistent structure). This first creation of Gouêt’s new “line” is a very detailed blend of vintages back over the past 20-plus years. What struck me immediately was its complexity, in addition to the shortbread and the flowers, it also shows green fruit flavors and tangy notes the comparators do not have. Gouêt refers to it as “yeast-driven,” and I also found it aggressive in a positive way and extremely satisfying.
98 Roger Morris