Pinch me, but this Pinot from Morgan’s Double L Vineyard — one of its finest Pinot sources over the years — is now certified organic, which used to be the kiss of death. Clearly, California viticulture has advanced to the point that organic grapes for wine no longer dooms the wine. Of course, the folks at Benziger and Bonterra have been doing organic wines at a high level for some time, but they’ve always been the exception. This vintage of Double L from Morgan exhibits a nose of violets and spice, with loads of red fruit that makes itself known on the front of the palate. The flavors are persistent and inviting, and the overall balance is impeccable. Easily one of the most harmonious wines I’ve tasted in some time.
Morgan, Santa Lucia Highlands (Monterey County, California) Pinot Noir 2009
By Robert Whitley