Yes, 2020 will be remembered for fires that wiped a good portion of the red wine from California off the map, but intrepid aficionados know that there are always exceptions in any vintage that are worth seeking out. That’s the case here, brought forth in a sadly underappreciated variety by the folks at Nello Olivo. It is made in a lusty style but still shows restraint and poise, with a characteristic freshness that keeps things fun throughout. It has age-worthy structure as well. Perfectly ripe, and perfectly delicious.
Nello Olivo, El Dorado (Sierra Foothills, California) Barbera 2020
By Rich Cook