It is not surprising that Nicolas-Jay focuses on single vineyard bottlings, like this one from the acclaimed Nysa Vineyard, given the Burgundian perspective Jean-Nicolas Méo brings to the project. The iron-tinged 2022 Nysa leads with gorgeous aromatics of dark fruit and minerals. It is paradoxically dense and weighty without a trace of heaviness, achieving the all-too-elusive, “flavor without weight” attribute that makes Pinot Noir unique. Suave tannins are barely noticeable yet provide support. Brilliant acidity keeps it fresh and lively. Although delicious to drink now, its impeccable balance suggests it will evolve beautifully revealing even more savory elements.
Nicolas-Jay Estate, Dundee Hills (Willamette Valley, Oregon) Pinot Noir 2022
By Michael Apstein