Nino Costa, Langhe Nebbiolo (Piedmont, Italy) 2020

 is a light, fresh, very well-balanced rendition of Nebbiolo made to enjoy early and often.  This category has never gained traction in the USA as well as Rosso di Montalcino, which can effectively be sold as “Baby Brunello.”  The reason is that Langhe Nebbiolo is usually so light that almost no retailer would have the chutzpah to sell one of them as “Baby Barbaresco” (much less “Baby Barolo”), though they bear roughly as close a resemblance as Rosso di Montalcino holds to Brunello di Montalcino.  The reason for this is that Nebbiolo is naturally light in pigmentation and sheer heft, so wines made from young vines without serious crop-thinning and oak exposure simply don’t pack sufficient wallop to embolden most self-respecting sellers to over-sell them.  Good examples of Langhe Nebbiolo show lovely, subtle perfume (think roses or violets) and fine flavors of red fruits like cherries and raspberries, but modest tannins that usually make them seem quite unlike young Barbaresco (again, much less Barolo).  This is a good example indeed, with very attractive floral and subtly fruity aromas as well as fine balance between its light weight and unobtrusive tannins.  Perfect for light summer fare like grilled fish or chicken breast that calls for a red — but a light red (which is not so easily found in our alarmingly warming world).