Nino Franco, Vino Spumante (Italy) 2010

This wine is sourced from a single, limestone-rich site in which the vines are trained in cordon fashion and farmed sustainably.  The appellation authorities found it too atypical to permit it designation under the DOCG, so you’ll find reference neither to Valdobbiadene nor Prosecco on the label (despite the fact that it is sourced from a prime site and made entirely from Glera).  The authorities had a point, I suppose, as the wine is indeed highly atypical, but had I been in charge, I’d have decided in a millisecond to keep this associated with my appellation.  In any case, this is a late-released, thrillingly mineral-drive wine from stem to stern, though delicate fruit is also present in the aromas, flavors and finish.  Finished with just 7 grams per liter of sugar, this is close to as intricately complex as a Prosecco can be.  Call it what you will, but for me, this is one of the most enduringly interesting wines I’ve ever tasted from this region and grape.  And by the way, it can even hold up over time:  I also tasted the 2008, which showed only positive oxidative characters and was every bit as good as the 2010, based on different strengths.