Owners Jim and Suzy Gullett have wisely encouraged Sangiovese star Rusty Folena to do some small-lot experimentation, and the best of those forays make it to the bottle known as AX-1. These wines can vary wildly from vintage to vintage, and that’s kind of the point. It’s easy to become jaded and think that it has all been done in the world of wine, but Rusty clearly takes the “stay curious” mantra seriously. The 2017 may be the best AX-1 yet, showing a deep, complex nose of black cherry, well folded oak spice and a dash of chocolate. It is a long-term wine, but I doubt you will be able to keep your hands off it for very long.
97 Rich Cook
Noceto, Shenandoah Valley (California) Sangiovese “AX-1” 2017 ($65)
By Rich Cook
