Obsidian Ridge, Red Hills Lake County (Lake County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2009

 A juicy dark-fruit wine that’s strongly tannic, but opens up with time in the glass to reveal stony flavors that remind you of the rocky soils of this high-altitude vineyard.  The land was owned by a UC Berkeley football coach — who failed at walnut farming — and a Navajo horse trader before being bought by Peter Molnar, a Cornell grad who learned about wine in Hungary.  Just 14.4% alcohol, this is the kind of wine that used to provide more fruit without recognition in Napa Valley Cabernets, and when you think about the prices of those, it’s a bargain.