Ornellaia, Bolgheri Bianco DOC (Tuscany, Italy) 2022 ($308, Vintus)

The connections between Ornellaia and Bordeaux are many – all good – so it shouldn’t be surprising that its white estate wine has reached parity with the Medoc and Pessac-Leognan whites and surpasses most of them. This all Sauvignon Blanc wine – some Semillon is planted but not yet employed – comes from average 25-year-old vines and is aged in 30% new barrels. It’s simply delicious and elegant with no rough edges, not perfect but nearly, medium bodied, with a hint of lemon and lime in the finish and a lingering perfume. At this point, it would seem a shame to think of adding Semillon.
96 Roger Morris