Ostatu, Rioja (Spain) 2008

 Rioja is turning out a lot of impressive-looking wines these days, whereas this one only starts to impress when it really counts, which is when one tastes it.  Not designated as a Reserva nor Gran Reserva and not packaged in an ostentatious “statement” bottle, this is a modest wine.  Until, that is, you get it into a glass, at which time it shows marvelously expressive aromas and flavors that are beautifully balanced and symmetrical, with restrained wood and interesting mineral tinges in the finish.