Saint-Amour is the most northern Beaujolais cru and the second smallest, after Chénas. Clay in the granitic soil here adds an oomph to the wines, according to growers to whom I spoke. Ferraud’s is wonderfully fragrant and immediately enticing. After its floral allure, its power comes as a surprise, but a welcome one because it is not overdone. Firmness balances its cherry-like ripeness.
P. Ferraud et Fils, Saint-Amour (Beaujolais, France) 2017
By Michael Apstein