This is an unusual wine. It comes from one of Spain’s 26 Vino de Pago wineries – individual estates that effectively have their own appellation. The Pago del Vicario estate is located on the plateau of central Spain, about 100 miles south of Madrid in the Castilla-La Mancha region. It sits at an 1800-foot elevation and encompasses some 130 hectares of vineyard on a variety of soil types along the Guadiana River. While they produce a number of red and white wines, this white is made entirely from the juice of Tempranillo grapes, the primary red grape of the region. The 2023 Pago del Vicario Blanco de Tempranillo shows a delicious combination of juicy fruit and elegance. The is a bare hint of pink to the color of the wine. The aromas are forward and enticing, with pure raspberry, peach and strawberry fruits enhanced by hints of flowers, citrus peel and spice. The lively red fruit of the Tempranillo is evident on the palate with its luscious raspberry, cherry, peach and strawberry flavors supported by citrus pith and subtle spice tones. This is a delicious, juicy white that is a wonderful companion for a wide range of foods.
90 Wayne Belding
Pago del Vicario, Vino de Pago (Spain) Blanco de Tempranillo 2023 ($16, City Moonlight Wines)
By Wayne Belding