Paraduxx, Howell Mountain (Napa Valley, California) 2012

This is a big boy, and I don’t mean heavy and out of shape.  It’s a ripped, powerful prizefighter, with everything poised to spring forward at the bell, and improve in the later rounds whereas many others simply tire and wither.  You don’t hear much talk about mountain Zinfandel in Napa Valley, but it’s out there and here it’s artfully blended with Cabernet Sauvignon to tame its boldness and add complexity.  It’s not too tame though — you want a little wildness in your boxer if you’re serious about the title, right?  Deep brambly fruit, brown spice, damp earth and mocha ride on fine-grained mountain tannins and finish dark and spicy.  Give it some good air before round one and serve with beef or lamb.