Pasqua Vigneti e Cantine, Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG (Veneto, Italy) 2012

 Never say never, the translation of Mai Dire Mai, as in “I never like Amarone,” is appropriate for this massive wine.  I’m not usually a fan of Amarone because they can be overwhelming.  And that’s what you’d expect from one with a stated-alcohol of 16.5 percent.  But, Pasqua manages to pull it off with this one because it is balanced. It delivers a wonderfully warming mixture of dried and fruit flavors wrapped in rather suave tannins.  You notice the alcohol — that’s the warming part — but it doesn’t burn.  It’s a steakhouse kind of wine, best consumed in subfreezing weather with snow on the ground.