Patrick Piuze, Chablis (Burgundy, France) 2016

  There is a longstanding tradition of identifying vineyards when making Chablis Premier and Grand Cru.  Fewer producers do that with village wines, preferring to simply label the wine Chablis.  Piuze, who like many relatively new small négociants owns no vineyards, opting instead to buy grapes from local growers, is able to take an intermediate approach.  He labels his village Chablis according to the commune from which the grapes come.  His 2016 “Terroir de Fyé,” from the tiny village of the same name, is focused and precise, displaying crisp and cutting minerality.  It’s a mini Montée de Tonnerre, and given prices of white Burgundy these days, a bargain.