Pieropan, Soave Classico (Veneto, Italy) 2023 ($21, Maze Row)

It is a rare but happy coincidence when the most widely available wine in a potentially excellent but still-underestimated category also happens to be among the very best. This straight, entry-level Soave Classico DOC release from Pieropan is terrific yet again in 2023, showing unusually expressive aromas with a faint floral note, followed by orchard fruit notes recalling apricots as well as an undertone recalling baked apples. A bit more concentrated than the norm among wines from this appellation but also unusually fresh thanks to vibrant acidity, this is delicious on its own but also very promising for pairing with lighter spring or summer fare.
92 Michael Franz