Prager, Wachau (Niederösterriech, Austria) Riesling Wachstum Bodenstein Smaragd 2023 ($84, Winebow)

The Prager winery in Austria’s Wachau region is noted for pure and precise expressions of Riesling and Grüner Veltliner wines. Toni and Ilse Bodenstein currently manage the vineyards and winemaking with the desire to fully express the unique terroir of their vineyard sites. The well-drained soils or the terraced vineyards are of decomposed gneiss. The exposure is excellent and the results are impressive. The 2023 vintage is pure, fresh and minerally-clean with aromas of lemon, lime, green apple and tropical fruit interwoven with subtle elements of citrus peel, flowers and herbs. The flavors reflect the nose with layers of pure fruit, herb and floral elements and a satisfying textural richness on the palate. The long finish is crisp and dry with pure fruit and floral nuances supported by the wet-stone mineral core. Delicious and complex now, it will last for another decade and beyond.
96 Wayne Belding