Propriété de L’Ètat de Fribourg, Vully (Switzerland) Pinot Noir 2016

 Vully was not an appellation even mentioned when I first traveled to Switzerland for wine, but now… perhaps largely due to climate change and the success of pinot here… it belongs on everyone’s map.  The fruit is delicate but penetrating in flavor, which is the key characteristic of all great Pinot.  I’m not ready to claim “greatness” for this wine, but the fact that it can get that one key thing right suggests that greatness can truly be achieved with sufficient vine age and winemaking talent.  What is in the bottle now is already wonderfully impressive, with little evidence of assistance from fancy oak — or oak at all for that matter — yet the stable color and depth of color suggests that some must have been involved.  The acidity and tannin are matched to the fruit in a way that is, well, perfect, and the symmetries and proportionality of this wine is really quite impressive.  I’m honestly not sure whether this is a co-op or some other sort of enterprise in light of its state-affiliated name, but who cares.  The wine is completely delicious.