Punta Crena, Colline Savonesi IGT (Liguria, Italy) Mataòssu “Vigneta Reiné” 2022 ($35, Kermit Lynch)

Mataòssu is grown almost exclusively at Punta Crena in Liguria. It once reigned supreme in this zone but was gradually ripped out because it has such a difficult vegetative balance. As a result, several of Punta Crena’s wines are one of a kind. Mataòssu is a stylistic fusion of Chenin Blanc and Burgundy—honeyed and floral on the nose, yet saline, tensile, and refreshingly vibrant on the finish. The 2022 vintage offers great fruit intensity with a mineral backbone that perfectly balances the richness. There are also hints of Mediterranean herbs and salinity, which are from the steep hillside vineyard close to the sea. It’s just what you want when digging into a plate of fried calamari.
93 Miranda Franco