Pym-Rae, Napa Valley (California) 2016

 The Tesseron family of Château Pontet-Canet in the Paulliac region of Bordeaux went looking for a small vineyard property in the Napa Valley.  The did find a small vineyard of 18.5 acres, but it was part of a 640-acre property, which was owned by the late Robin Williams.  They were looking for a high-altitude vineyard and this just happened to be on Mount Veeder at 1800 feet.  They were looking for mature, deep-rooted vines and grape varieties that were familiar to them.  This vineyard, planted in 1990, had Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc.  The property was bigger than they wanted, but it had everything they were looking for, so they have said, “this is the land that chose us.”   Having found the perfect property, they immediately started working on conversion to biodynamic practices, the same way they farm their vineyards in Paulillac.  They tore out the irrigation system, so that “they wouldn’t be tempted.”  They introduced horses pulling carts to work in the vines, because the soil was compacted due to previous use of tractors.  When they added cows, they found that the footprints of the cows in the soil also serve as water collectors.  It took them at least three years, but they are now certified biodynamic by Demeter.  Family members including father, Albert Tesseron, along with his son, Noé, and daughter, Justine, are each in different US markets this week introducing the inaugural vintage of Pym-Rae 2016.  This week I met Noé, who explained that Pym and Rea are the middle names of Robin Williams’ two children.  They gave the wine this name in honor of Williams and his family.  At first glance and sniff, there is no mistaking Pym-Rae for a Bordeaux.  Its color is a deep ruby red, almost purple, and the nose has lovely rich, ripe black plum, black cherry, cassis aromas.  The flavors are rich and redolent of ripe, dark fruits, with notes of spice, tobacco and toast, yet the overall impression is of freshness and lift, perhaps a bit of Bordeaux peaking through.  Tannins are deftly managed; integrated and balanced with the fruit, alcohol and acidity.  It will be a joy to watch it mature.  This may be the family’s first wine in Napa, but it shows their respect for terroir and their wisdom to let it shine.