RdV Vineyards, Virginia “Lost Mountain” 2021 ($235)

This is the last vintage of Rutger de Vink’s cult wine to be labeled “RdV.” Sold this summer to the Bouygues family (best known in relation to Bordeaux’s Château Montrose), the estate will now be called “Lost Mountain.” Josh Grainer will remain as winemaker, and Bordeaux’s Eric Boissenot will still consult. The wine – a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (64%), Cabernet Franc ($34) and Merlot (4%) – is stunning, with ripe, creamy blackberry flavors, hints of mint and chocolate and mildly savory. The structure is seamless and slides gently into a finish of integrated tannins. Delicious now, but will age for ages.
98 Roger Morris