Though RdV takes its inspiration — and its consulting winemaker — from France, this wine is much more like California. It’s formidable, with plenty of dark cherry and blackberry fruit and firm tannins. It’s powerful with good length, and is what muscle wines are all about these days, yet it’s a reasonable 14.5% alcohol. In Virginia, Merlot tends to do better than Cabernet Sauvignon, but still the proportions seem backward given the character: 62% Merlot, 29% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Cabernet Franc, 3% Petit Verdot. This wine would do well in competition with top Napa Valley red blends; the $100 price barrier will fall in Virginia soon.