RdV Vineyards, Virginia (United States) 2009

I take no pleasure in saying this about the wine industry of my neighboring state of Virginia, but many of its wineries are glorified hobby houses or tourist destinations that are focused less on quality wine as on souvenirs sold from the tasting room.  That’s the bad news.  The good news is that there are also exemplary producers like Linden and RdV that are resolutely committed to making world-class wine… of which this bottle offers an object lesson.  The wine is so good that it is barely believable that this is only the winery’s second vintage.  Made from Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot (77%, 14% and 9%, respectively), the grapes that are grown on a steep granite slope (which helps with drainage in Virginia’s rather wet climate).  Aged entirely in new French oak, it shows terrific polish and elegance, but not for a lack of concentration or depth of flavor.  Beautiful color and excellent oak balance are likewise very impressive.  Sure, $88 is expensive, but the wine tastes worthy of its price tag.  Beyond that, the fact that this level of quality was achieved from very young vines in a very wet growing season boggles the mind.