Renato Ratti, Barolo DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) 2016

 The bad news is that this wine is now priced near the quality tier on which is sits in the Barolo hierarchy, with top vintages such as 2015 and 2016 selling for over $100 (and for $130 at Zachys in New York, which is usually competitive nationally).  The good news is that both the 2015 and 2016 are fabulous, and still less expensive than some of their quality peers that have a bit more “cult” status.  The ’16 is notably different than its predecessor, with significantly lighter pigment concentration as well as physical density.  However, it would be a very bad mistake to downgrade the wine for those reasons, as it displays absolutely gorgeous aromas with floral notes, woodspice and ripe scents of dried cherries that could hardly be more seductive.  The flavors follow suit, but also add a wonderful savory note recalling cured meat.  In overall profile, this offers an incredibly high ratio of aroma and flavor to weight, and in that respect will remind many tasters more of Grand Cru Burgundy than their stereotypical notion of Barolo.  But make no mistake:  This is truly great Barolo, and a jaw-droppingly beautiful wine.