Reustle Prayer Rock Vineyards, Umpqua Valley (Oregon) Grüner Veltliner 2023

 Um, $44 for an American Grüner?  Yes, indeed… and where is the checkout line?  This variety has been taken to heights by this producer that have even famous Austrian winemakers looking up at it from below.  There’s also a “Green Lizard” release that sells for six bucks less, and that too is stellar, but this packs more deliciousness into a 750ml bottle than seems possible.  Its viscous richness and fruity sweetness are just a bit jarring when considered in the context of many Austrian renditions that are nowhere near as luscious as this, but it only takes a few seconds for the lusciousness to overcome the element of surprise.  Fruit aromas and flavors of rich white melon, apricot and citrus are all very appealing, and though there’s less peppery character here than in many renditions that are less opulent, nobody will feel short-changed after they leave the checkout line.  I would advise you to start tasting this cold, then stick with it as it warms to see the full range of its very considerable charms.