I think of this producer as the world’s premier producer of Grüner Veltliner outside of Austria, so I’m glad I had a chance to evaluate this when tasting blind, and avoid underestimating how well this Syrah was grown and crafted. It shows alluring floral notes (violets) that often show in top northern Rhône Valley renditions of the variety, along with a terrific mix of pure, natural fruit and interesting savory accents. What may be most impressive about this wine is its “ease” and natural-ness (by which I mean an un-manipulated character, as opposed to being akin to so-called “natural wines,” which are a minefield as a category). To avoid closing on a critical observation, let me simply note that this is delicious and completely convincing.
94 Michael Franz
Reustle Prayer Rock Vineyards, Umpqua Valley (Oregon) Syrah, Estate Grown, “Winemaker’s Reserve” 2021 ($45)
By Michael Franz